The power that runs to our home is something we have come to rely on. There isn’t a part of our day that does not somehow use electricity. It is how we cook, tell the time, play and stay clean. When the power goes out, our lives are turned upside down. Fortunately, the power grid has been fairly stable. Unfortunately, it isn’t stable enough and the smallest thing can take it out. It is a good idea to be ready to deal with a power outage should one catch you off guard. An electrician in Burbank has some tips for putting together a power outage kit. If you have any questions about power outages or what to do, give The Electric Connection a call.

It is a good idea to put your supplies in a drawer or in a small tote stored in a cupboard in a hall closet. It needs to be easily accessed in the dark. Adding a glow in the dark sticker or two to the tote can help make it stand out.

*Talk with a Burbank electrician about having security lights installed in your home and outside. These lights will automatically turn on when the power is cut. Some of these plug into an outlet and will come on when the power goes out, providing you with instant light.

*Toss in a few emergency candles and matches along with candleholders.

*Some LED headlamps and/or flashlights is also a good idea.

*Have the number to the power company in the kit or somewhere you can easily find it.

*Keep a few cans of food on hand along with a manual can opener just in case the power outage extends into the meal periods.

You can avoid the problems created when the power goes out by having a standby generator installed by an electrician. Burbank homeowners will take comfort in having a backup source of power. Give The Electric Connection a call today and learn more about preparing for power outages.

Whether you’re planning a week-long vacation or a short weekend getaway for Labor Day, you’re going to want to safeguard your home against potential break-ins. Of course, the hope is always that nothing bad will happen while you’re away, however, if we’ve all learned something it’s that preparedness is key. We all have our own methods for deterring burglars, but in the end the goal is always the same: make it appear as if there is activity both inside and outside the home.

We’ve put together a list of what we believe to be the most useful home safety tips. It’s always helpful to plan ahead of time rather than on the day of. When you put together a plan in advance, we guarantee you it will be more thorough and you’ll feel much better about leaving your home.

Ask a friend or neighbor to keep watch

From your cell phone to your washing machine, you’ll find all kinds electronics in your home.  Entertainment, lighting, comfort, and even cleaning can be electrically powered.  Most people know that it’s a good idea to disconnect electronics during an electrical outage or lightning storm.  This is due to possible electrical surges.  Electrical surges are sudden increases in current that can damage connections and electrical components throughout your home.  Most devices have some protections, but strong surges can overpower these protectors, leaving you with a very expensive paperweight after the surge is through.  Fortunately, surge protectors exist to stop this from happening.

A sudden increase in current occurs when more power is being delivered to the same system.  If a lightning storm strikes a transformer or relay that’s connected to the same grid you’re on, excess power is diverted to your home and creates an increase in current.  This sudden surge is what damages components.  But, it isn’t just limited to sudden electrical discharges either.  When power is applied to a system, it has substantial initial current.  This is known as inrush current and is the reason that you’re advised to disconnect electronics whenever there’s an outage.

Once power is restored to a system, either because you turn on a switch or the power grid is reconnected, initial current surges into the system.  Disconnecting devices helps to decrease that inrush current.  The electrical panel in your home is also designed to handle inrush current, which is why your breaker system doesn’t automatically trip whenever power is restored.  On a smaller scale, any sudden call for extra power pushes a small surge into the system.  When you power up an electric vacuum cleaner or portable space heater, there’s a small surge.  The more powerful the device, the larger the surge.  These are the types of surges that common surge protectors guard against.  For lightning strikes you’ll need something better.

While the majority of surges are protected against by those tiny power strips, because most surges originate inside your home, they aren’t strong enough to protect against the dangerous surges that will irreparably damage your in-home electronics.  Most homewoners prefer the power strip surge protectors because they’re inexpensive.  But, while a whole-home surge protector can cost over $200 to add on to your home, they don’t suffer from many of the drawbacks found in the tiny in-home protectors.

Whole-home surge protectors guard your entire home from outside surges.  They’re installed near and wired to the electrical service panel for your home.  Any power surge that travels to your home is immediately shunted away, preventing disaster from ever reaching your home.  You’ll find that whole-home surge protectors are also not as fragile as standard home surge protectors.  They’ll last for years and are less likely to be burnt out by a single surge.  A quality surge protector is capable of shunting tens of thousands of amps without burning out.

If you want the best in electrical protective devices, a whole-home surge protector is the right choice.  Compared to most safety installations, they’re relatively inexpensive and you only need to install one device to protect your home for years.  It’s still a good idea to use power strips to protect in-home devices from smaller surges, but you need a quality surge device to protect against lightning storms or substation surges.

For the best in quality electrical repair work and installations, contact the professionals at Custom Electric!  Be sure to check back here each week for helpful advice, news, and guides or follow us on Facebook and Twitter!

Categories: Business, commercial electrical, Residential« 3 Reasons You Should Hire a Professional Electrician  |  Mood Lighting for Romance »

Commercial buildings require special considerations when it comes to electrical wiring. Most commercial buildings do not have the luxury of a wooden frame to run wires through, so other wiring methods must be used. Some of those are discussed below.

In some instances, armored cable may be used. This type of cable, known as teck cable, is available in nearly any size and features a core made of the desired number and sizes of wires, protective jacketing, flexible aluminum armor, and in some cases a weather-resistant exterior jacket. Teck cables can be pulled through conduit, cable tray, or be buried directly in the ground as long as the cable is rated for direct burial and certain burial depths are adhered to. Teck cables can also be installed in hazardous locations by using special explosion-proof cable fittings and approved sealing compounds. The main advantage to teck cable is its ease of installation and versatility. When using a cable tray system, cables can also be easily added or removed at any time.

With this basic knowledge of the types of electrical wiring methods used in commercial buildings, it is easy to select the best option for any installation.

Understanding common household light bulb shapes, sizes, and styles is important whether you’re converting outdated incandescent fixtures into energy-efficient ones or using LED bulbs for new-construction applications. Every light bulb has identifying characteristics that are represented by a letter or series of letters and a number; these are known as light bulb codes. The letter or letters in a bulb code indicate either shape or special features such as reflector type. Numbers in a bulb code indicate size in millimeters or eighths of an inch. These codes will tell you if a bulb will fit in your fixture and if it’s the right shape.

For every light fixture or application, there’s going to be a specific bulb or light bulb shape that will fit best and provide the right type of light. If you understand bulb codes, it’s easy to look at a light fixture and know right away what kind of bulb you’ll need.

Let’s talk about light bulb groups, their bulb codes, and what applications those bulbs are typically used for.

Standard/arbitrary (A) bulbs are the most widely used and thought of when it comes to household lighting. These bulbs work well for a variety of applications, such as ceiling lights, lamps, vanity lights, kitchen lights, closet lights, porch light fixtures, and so many more.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

A15 bulb: 15/8 = 1-7/8″ diameter

A19 bulb: 19/8 = 2-3/8″ diameter

A21 bulb: 21/8 = 2-5/8″ diameter

A25 bulb: 25/8 = 3-1/8″ diameter

Most common base types:

Globe (G) bulbs have a full, round shape and are available in various sizes. They can be used for many applications throughout the home, such as foyer lights, kitchen lights, chandeliers, and ornamental fixtures. The most common type is the large G30 bulb, which is used in bathroom and makeup vanities.

Depending on the bulb, numbers in each code can refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch or in millimeters.

G11 bulb: 11/8 = 1-3/8″ diameter

G14 bulb: 14/8 = 1-3/4″ diameter

G16/G50: 16/8 = 2″ diameter

G60: 60 millimeters = 2-3/8″ diameter

G25/G80: 80 millimeters = 3-9/64″ diameter

G30: 30/8 = 3-3/4″ diameter

Most common base types:

All of the bulbs in these groups resemble the shape of a candle flame and are often referred to as candle bulbs. Conical (C) bulbs are shaped like a cone. Conical angular (CA) bulbs are shaped like a cone but have a bent tip. Blunt-tip (B) bulbs are very similar to C-type bulbs but have more of a torpedo or bullet shape. These bulbs can be used in chandeliers, wall sconces, pendant lights, night lights, decorative light strands, holiday light strands, and other decorative home lighting applications.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

B10 bulb: 10/8 = 1-1/4″ diameter

CA10 bulb: 10/8 = 1-1/4″ diameter

C7 bulb: 7/8 = 7/8″ diameter

C9 bulb: 9/8 = 1-1/8″ diameter

C15 bulb: 15/8 = 1-7/8″ diameter

Most common base types:

BR stands for bulged reflector. Traditionally, the inside surface of an incandescent BR bulb is covered in reflector material that is used to gather and cast a wide beam of light away from the bulb. LED BR bulbs don’t require the reflector material. These bulbs can have a frosted, clear, or patterned dome-shaped lens that diffuses light and provides a gradual fade into nonilluminated areas. BR bulbs also produce less shadows when compared to PAR bulbs. They’re a bit longer than PAR bulbs and tend to protrude from light housings but are used in similar applications, such as track lights, recessed lights, display lights, or can lights.

BR20 bulbs are often referred to as R20 but have the same characteristics of other BR bulb types. The R stands for reflector.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

BR20/R20 bulb: 20/8 = 2-1/2″ diameter

BR30 bulb: 30/8 = 3-3/4″ diameter

BR40 bulb: 40/8 = 5″ diameter

Most common base type:

Multifaceted reflector (MR) bulbs are small in size with a reflective, faceted interior. The facets create a concentrated beam of light that can be displayed in a narrow spot or wide flood beam pattern. Because of the directional light they provide, MR LED bulbs don’t require the facets but often still have them. These bulbs are available in a variety of colors and can be used for many applications, including track lighting, recessed lighting, desk lights, and display case lighting. Many MR bulbs operate on low-voltage wiring systems, which makes them great for outdoor and landscape applications such as driveway lights, path lights, gazebo lights, paver lights, and malibu lights that have weatherproof housings.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

MR11 bulb: 11/8 = 1-3/8″ diameter

MR16 bulb: 16/8 = 2″ diameter

Most common base types:

Tubular (T) bulbs come in a variety of lengths and widths. Depending on their size, these bulbs can be used in applications ranging from chandeliers, wall sconces, and pendant lights to basement and garage troffer light fixtures.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

T7 bulb: 7/8 = 7/8″ diameter

T8 bulb: 8/8 = 1″ diameter

T10 bulb: 10/8 = 1-1/4″ diameter

T14 bulb: 14/8 = 1-3/4″ diameter

Most common base types: