Household appliances are expensive investments, so it's an alarming moment when the hot water heater sputters to a stop or the washing machine starts spewing suds all over the laundry room. If you're lucky, the problem is something that can be inexpensively repaired. However, sometimes your appliance is telling you it's time for a brand-new model. In fact, depending on how old your current model is, you could actually save money and come out ahead by purchasing a new, energy-efficient unit. How do you know when it's time to call the repairman, or time to pull the plug? Carefully consider your options when a machine is on the fritz: 

Do It Yourself

The first step is to read your repair manual and search online for people who have had similar problems. It could be that the issue is something simple that you can fix yourself. Things like clogged drains or filters should be an easy repair. 

Are You Under Warranty?

Lucky you. If your appliance is still under warranty, you may be eligible for free parts, a free repair or even a whole new unit, depending on the terms of your contract. Make sure to save all the paperwork when you make a major purchase, and read it over carefully before putting out any money for a repair. 

Call a Professional

If your appliance is only a few years old, it's probably worth the money to have a reliable professional come look at it and give you an estimate on what a repair should cost. Fixes like installing new motors or belts probably won't break the bank. If it's less than half the price of buying a new machine, it's probably worth it to fix instead of buy. Ask how many more years you can expect the appliance to last after a repair.

Time to Go Shopping

If your appliance is more than 6 or 7 years old, or if it's broken down numerous times in the past, it's time to start looking for a new model. If you are still coaxing an ancient, decades-old device into health, you might be shocked at how much you can save with an upgrade.

If you decide it's time to buy a new unit, do your research before you buy. The federal Energy Star program maintains a directory of products that meet strict efficiency guidelines, so you can be sure that whatever you buy will help tamp down your utility bills. Do some math to figure out how long your expected energy savings will take to cover the cost of the appliance. Also, don't forget to factor in any delivery or installation charges, plus the removal bill for the old unit.

Take Care of Your Appliances 

Finally, don't forget to read and follow all manufacturer instructions and keep up with any routine maintenance for your household appliances to extend their life and prevent breakdowns in the first place. A few minutes of work per year can save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

Each process of construction is directly or indirectly related to the other, so having a bit of knowledge about each one of these is imperative even if you specialize in only one.

From a contractor’s perspective, the construction of a house can be divided into two main phases: wet and dry. The wet phase refers to the initial phase when the house is unprotected from moisture caused by external forces such as rain, while the dry phase is the phase when most electrical work is carried out as the interior is safe from rain and snow.

On the other hand, from an electrician’s perspective, the two main phases of construction include phase one – the rough in, and phase two – the finish. This division is based on the stage of finishing that the walls are at. Here is a step-by-step guide into how the electrical work is carried out during the construction of a house:

Since there is a lot of machinery that operates on electricity and there is no electricity connection at the construction site, a temporary electric pole is installed during this stage.

Across the U.S. approximately 4,400 people are injured and an additional 400 die each year resulting from electrical hazards annually. Add in electrical fire, and you have what results in an estimated $1.6 billion in property damage each year. Could these accidents have been prevented? When it comes to electrical safety, what you don’t know can hurt you.

GFCI stands for ground fault circuit interrupter. A GFCI is required in any areas with an increased risk of shock due to electrical hazards, such as water. In order to protect you from electrical hazards, a GFCI monitors electrical current, turning off an electrical circuit when it detects an imbalance - current flowing along an unintended path. Think of a GFCI as a small, extra-sensitive circuit breaker built right into an outlet to protect you against electrocution – even in outlets that are not grounded. GFCIs are currently required for use in:

Note: Never use GFCI outlets with refrigerators, freezers, or other appliances, as they could trip without your knowledge.

AFCIs stand for arc-fault circuit interrupters, and they protect you from electrical dangers, but of a different variety – those that create heat via arcing. Examples include a rodent chewing on a wire, driving a nail through a wire, or a device overheating where it is plugged into the wall. AFCIs detect this arcing, shutting down outlets before damage can occur. They are not found in wall receptacles like GFCIs, but instead are easily incorporated into your home or business’ main service panel in the form of specialized circuit breakers. AFCIs are required in:

Though you may have an older home or business where building codes do not require these outlets, proper home safety does. Regular outlets and circuit breakers are designed to protect the house's electrical system, not people. With these devices being so easy and inexpensive to install, why wouldn’t you want to protect yourself and others from the unnecessary electrical hazards overlooking them presents?

As of 2014, the National Electric Code (NEC), the nation’s singular code for safe electrical installation, has added the following standards for the safety of your home or business:

All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in a laundry room now require GFCI protection, whether or not a sink is present.

As dishwashers age, the risk of electrical shock increases, thus the latest requirement for GFCI protection on all dishwashers, whether they use a receptacle outlet or are hardwired in.

As of 2014, the NEC has recently added kitchen and laundry areas to the list of areas requiring AFCI protection. This includes all 120-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying not just outlets but also devices found in these rooms.

Shocked by how inadequately prepared for electrical hazards your home or business is? Don’t get burned by ignoring the need for these inexpensive, potentially life-saving devices. Contact Mr. Electric® today.